Costume and Sustainability
From Past Practice to Future Strategies for an Ecological Costume Praxis
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.7146/peri.v19i37.135192Resumé
What can we learn from past traditions and what sustainability practices are currently employed in the field of costume? Moving towards a more ecological costume creation, there is an increasing need to address the responsibility of the costume practitioners through the lifecycle of costume from design to production. This article provides an overview of current sustainable costume practices and suggests that it is timely to rethink costume praxis from an ecologically responsible perspective. The article addresses the necessity of embedding ecological equity into all aspects of costume creation and proposes that a resilient ecosystem of costume practice can be envisioned within professional institutions, as well as the individual costume designer.
Referencer
APDG, 2020. APDGreen: A Green Conversation. Australian Production Designers Guild. (online) 23 March 2020. Available at: https://apdg.org.au/2020/03/apdgreen-a-green-conversation (Accessed 19 April 2022).
Banks, S., 2014. Riding a Bike on Stage - Green Theater and Katie Mitchell’s Production of Lungs. HowlRound Theatre Commons (online). Available at: https://howlround.com/riding-bike-stage (Accessed 31 March 2022).
Beer, T., 2014. Introducing ‘ecoscenography’. Ecoscenography, (blog) 7 June. Available at: https://ecoscenography.com/2014/06/07/introducing-ecoscenography/ (Accessed 20 April 2022).
Beer, T., 2021. Ecoscenography: An Introduction to Ecological Design for Performance. Singapore: Palgrave Macmillan.
Biba, E., 2019. Everything Americans think they know about recycling is probably wrong. NBC News, (online) 14 April. Available at: https://www.nbcnews.com/think/opinion/everything-americans-think-they-know-about-recycling-probably-wrong-ncna994261 (Accessed 17 April 2022).
Caswell, M. & Cifor, M., 2016. From human rights to feminist ethics:_Radical empathy in the archives. In: Archivaria, The Journal of the Association of Canadian Archivists. Available at: https://escholarship.org/uc/item/0mb9568h (Accessed 24.04.2022).
Gilligan, C., 1982 [1993]. In a Different Voice: Psychological Theory and Women’s Development. (Kindle), Cambridge: Harvard University Press. Available at: https://www.amazon.com/Different-Voice-Psychological-Theory-Development-ebook/dp/B00DQCACNE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=carol+gilligan&qid=1650808100&s=digital-text&sprefix=carol+gill%2Cdigital-text%2C337&sr=1-1 (Accessed 23 April 2022).
Grosz, E., 2017. The Incorporeal: Ontology, Ethics, and the Limits of Materialism. New York: Columbia University Press.
Jones, A. R. and Stallybrass, P., 2001. Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Kidao, S., 2019. The Costume Directory (online) Available at: https://www.sineadkidao.com/the-costume-directory (Accessed 19 April 2022).
Laine, V., 2020. Vespa Laine: Esityksen ekologinen kestävyys. Meteli, (online) 17 March. Available at: https://www.teme.fi/fi/meteli/vespa-laine-esityksen-ekologinen-kestavyys/ (Accessed 9 March 2022).
Laine, V., 2021. Vespa Laine: Ekologisuus pitäisi saada työehtosopimuksiin. Meteli, (online) 13 October. Available at: https://www.teme.fi/fi/meteli/vespa-laine-ekologisuus-pitaisi-saada-tyoehtosopimuksiin/ (Accessed 9 March 2022).
Maclaurin, A., 2015. An interview with Jenny Tiramani. In: A. Maclaurin & A. Monks, eds, Costume: Readings in Theatre Practice, London: Palgrave, pp. 19-28.
MacArthur, E., 2021. Ellen MacArthur in conversation with Wolfgang Blau: Growth in a circular economy. Circular Economy Show, (podcast) 18 August. Available at: https://the-circular-economy-podcast.simplecast.com/episodes/ellen-macarthur-in-conversation-with-wolfgang-blau-growth-in-a-circular-economy-PE6125jC (Accessed 10 April 2022).
MyStash, 2022. (online) Available at: https://www.mystash.fi/ (Accessed 18 April 2022).
Niinimäki, K., ed., 2018. Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy. Espoo: Aalto ARTS Books.
Pantouvaki, S., 2020. Costume Thinking as a Strategy for Critical Thinking. In: Critical Costume 2020, Costume Agency. (online) 21 – 23 August 2020. Available at: https://costumeagency.com/project/sofiapantouvaki/ (Accessed 23 April 2022).
Pantouvaki, S., Fossheim, I. and Suurla, S. (2021). Thinking with costume and material: A critical approach to (new) costume ecologies. Theatre & Performance Design, 7(3-4), 2021, pp. 199-219. Available at: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/10.1080/23322551.2021.2002056 (Accessed 19 April 2022).
Potting, J., Hekkert, M., Worrel, E. and Hanemaaijer, A., 2017. Circular economy: measuring innovation in product chains. (pdf) The Hague: PBL Netherlands Environmental Assessment Agency. Available at: https://www.pbl.nl/sites/default/files/downloads/pbl-2016-circular-economy-measuring-innovation-in-product-chains-2544.pdf (Accessed 17 April 2022).
Romer, C., 2021. Our Experiments: Upcycling in Theatre. European Theatre Convention, (online) 15 January. Available at: https://www.europeantheatre.eu/publication/our-experiments-upcycling-in-theatre (Accessed 19 April 2022).
Ross, I., 2022. Found Objects in Action. The Show Must Go ON/OFF-line: Ecoscenography: conversations on sustainable theatre design and production (webinar), 27 January. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EofV1-Ky5MQ&list=PLSw4XqK0u-mhJ5aM4Yl-aFewZ8FZX8byy&index=1 (Accessed 11 April 2022).
Saveljeff, A., 2019. Pääkirjoitus: Teme haastaa työmarkkinajärjestöt neuvottelemaan ekologisempia työehtosopimuksia. Meteli, (online) 1 October. Available at: https://www.teme.fi/fi/meteli/9022/ (Accessed 9 March 2022).
Sharpe, B., 2020. Three Horizons - The Patterning of Hope. 2nd ed. Axminster: Triarchy Press.
Taylor, M. (2017). Shopping their wardrobe: Changing costume practices in Australian theatre. Behind the Scenes: Journal of Theatre Production Practice, 1(1), 2017, pp. 16 – 31.
Tenkanen, T., 2022. Tapio Säkkinen: Näyttämötaiteiden hiilineutraalius on sydämen asia. Meteli, (online) 1 March. Available at: https://www.teme.fi/fi/meteli/nayttamotaiteiden-hiilineutraalius-tapio-sakkisen-sydamen-asia/ (Accessed 31 March 2022).
Theatre Green Book, 2022. Theatre Green Book (online). Available at: https://theatregreenbook.com/ (Accessed 17 April 2022).
World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED), 1987. Our Common Future. (online) United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs. Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/content/documents/5987our-common-future.pdf (Accessed 3 April 2022).
Downloads
Publiceret
Citation/Eksport
Nummer
Sektion
Licens
Det følgende vedrører alle Peripeti-udgivelser fra 2024, nr. 39, og senere:
Peripeti er et Diamond Open Access-tidsskrift, der giver direkte open acces til publiceret indhold ud fra princippet om, at det at gøre forskning frit tilgængelig for offentligheden understøtter en større global udveksling af viden.
Forfattere skal ikke betale for indsendelse, redigering eller offentliggørelse af artikler.
Forfattere, der bidrager til Peripeti, bevarer ophavsretten til deres artikler.
Forfattere accepterer at udgive artikler under en Creative Commons CC-BY-NC 4.0-licens. Vilkårene for denne licens tillader brugere frit at kopiere og videredistribuere materialet i ethvert medie eller format og at tilpasse, transformere og bygge videre på materialet, så længe der gives passende kreditering, et link til licensen gives, og eventuelle ændringer angives. Brugere må ikke dele eller tilpasse materialet til kommercielle formål uden samtykke fra licensgiveren. Brugen af licensen må ikke på nogen måde antyde, at licensgiveren støtter tredjeparten eller dennes brug. Licensen kan ikke tilbagekaldes.
Forfattere opfordres til at lægge deres artikler ud på personlige og/eller institutionelle hjemmesider for at sikre endnu større offentlig adgang efter udgivelsen. Forfattere har ret til at arkivere deres artikler i fondes og offentlige institutioners arkiver, men Peripeti anmoder om, at forfattere bruger et direkte link til den publicerede artikel på tidsskriftets hjemmeside, når det er muligt, da Peripeti som en ikke-kommerciel, offentligt finansieret udgiver er afhængig af niveauet af brugeraktivitet på tidsskriftets hjemmeside.
Vedrørende tidligere udgivelser, indtil 2024, herunder nr. 38:
Ophavsretten deles mellem Peripeti og forfatteren/forfatterne. Tidsskriftet er et open access-tidsskrift, der giver direkte adgang til alt indhold baseret på princippet om, at det at gøre forskning frit tilgængelig for offentligheden understøtter en større global udveksling af viden. Brugere kan frit kopiere og dele materiale i ethvert medie eller format, så længe der gives passende kreditering. Enhver anden brug kræver skriftligt samtykke fra indehaverne af ophavsretten.