When did weaving become a male profession?
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2016.1245970Keywords:
Textile production, technology, weaving, gender roles, crafts, guilds, Middle Ages, Northwestern EuropeAbstract
The article discusses the development and technological changes within weaving in the Middle Ages when it developed into a major craft and one of the most important industries of the Middle Ages in Northern Europe. While prehistoric weaving appears as a predominantly female work domain, weaving became a male profession in urban contexts, organised within guilds. Hence, it has almost become a dogma that the expanding medieval textile industry, and corresponding transition from a female to a male work domain, was caused by new technology – the horizontal treadle loom. By utilising various source categories, documentary, iconographic and archaeological evidence, the article substantiates that the conception of the medieval weaver as a male craftsman should be adjusted and the long-established dichotomy between male professional craftsmen and weavers, and women as homework producers of textiles should be modified, also when related to guilds. The change from a domestic household-based production to a more commercially based industry took place at different times and scales in various areas of Europe and did not only involve men.
References
Alper, G., 2006. Das Braunschweiger Handwerk im Mittelalter und in der frühen Neuzeit. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 157-182.
Andersson, E., 2003. Tools for textile from Birka and Hedeby. Birka Studies. Vol. 8. Stockholm Birka Project, Riksantikvarieämbetet.
Arndt, B., 2006. Archäologische Befunde zum Handwerk im mittelalterlichen Göttingen. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 183-198.
Arneberg, J. and Østergård, E., 1993. Notes on archaeological finds of textile equipment from the Norse western settlement in Greenland (a preliminary report). Neumünster: NESAT VI, 162-177.
Ayers, B.S., 2006. Craft industry in Norwich from the twelfth to the eighteenth century. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 27-46.
Baxter, A. and Dokkedal, L., 1992. The warp-weighted loom: some new experimental notes, NESAT nr. 5. In: L. Bender Jørgensen and E. Munksgaard, eds. Tidens Tand. Copenhagen: Konservatorskolen. Det Kongelige danske kunstakademi, 231-234.
Bray, F., 2007. Gender and technology. The Annual Review of Anthropology, 36, 37-53. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.36.081406.094328
Broudy, E., 1979. The book of looms: a history of the handloom from ancient times to the present. Dartmouth: University Press of New England.
Cardon, D., 1999. La draperie au Moyen Âge. Essor d'une grande industrie européenne. Paris: CNRS Édition.
Carus-Wilson, E., 1969. Haberget: a medieval textile conundrum. Medieval Archaeology, Journal of the Society for Medieval Archaeology, 13, 148-166. https://doi.org/10.1080/00766097.1969.11735318
Caune, A. and Ose, I., 2006. Archäologische Erkenntnisse zum Handwerk in Riga. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 459-472.
Crowfoot, E., Pritchard, F., and Staniland, K., [1992] 2001. Textiles and clothing c.1150-1450. Medieval finds from excavations in London. London: The Boydell Press in association with the Museum of London.
Crowston, C., 2008. Women, gender, and guilds in early modern Europe: an overview of recent research. International Review of Social History 53. Supplement, 19-44, Cambridge: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0020859008003593
Crumlin-Pedersen, O., 1997. Viking-age ships and shipbuilding in Hedeby/Haithabu and Schleswig. Ships and boats of the north. Vol. 2. Schleswig: Archäologisches Landesmuseum der Christian-Albrechts-Universität.
Endrei, W. 1961. Der Trittwebstuhl in frühmittelalterlichen Europa, Acta Historica, Budapest: 107-136.
Epstein, S.R., 2008. Craft guilds in the pre-modern economy: a discussion. The Economic History Reviews. New Series, 61 (1), 155-174. Available from: http://www.jstor.org/stable/40057560 (accessed 19.02.2015). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-0289.2007.00411.x
Evans, D.H., 2006. Crafts and industries in Beverly and Hull from 1200 to 1700. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 71-92.
Falk, H., 1919. Altwestnordische Kleiderkunde mit besonderer Berücksichtigung der Terminologie. Skrifter. Kristiania: Videnskabsselskapet i Kristiania. Historisk-filosofisk klasse 1918, 3.
Geijer, A. and Andersbjörk, J.E., 1939. Two textile implements from the early Middle Ages, Folkliv. In: Acta Ethnologica et Folkororistica Europeae. Stockholm, 23-241.
Gjøl Hagen, K., [1988] 1994. Profesjonalisme og urbanisering. Profesjonalismeproblemet i håndverket belyst ved et tekstil- og vevloddsmateriale fra middelalderens Trondheim, fra 1000-tallet frem til slutten av 1300-tallet. Oslo: Universitetets Oldsaksamling Skrifter. Ny rekke. Nr 16.
Goldberg, P.J.P., ed., 1995. Women in England c. 1275-1525. Documentary sources translated and edited by P.J.P. Goldberg. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Granlund, J., 1975, Vever. KLNM, XIX, 680.
Grenander-Nyberg, G., 1975. Lanthemmens vävstolar. Studier av äldre redskap för husbehovsvävning. Nordiska museets handlingar 84. Stockholm: Nordiska museet.
Grenander-Nyberg, G., 1984. Eine Schaftrolle aus Haithabu als Teil einen Trittwebstuhl mit waagerecht gespannter Kette. In K. Schietzel ed. Berichte Über Die Ausgrabungen in Haitahbu, 19. Neumünster: Karl Wachholtz Verlag, 145-150.
Grenander-Nyberg, G., 1994a. Prehistoric and early medieval features in the construction of the oldest north European treadle looms. In: G. Jaacks and K. Tidow, eds. Archäologische Textilfunde - archaeological textiles. Textilsymposium Neumünster NESAT 5 1993. Neumünster, 203-212.
Grenander-Nyberg, G., 1994b. Looms for linen. Laborativ Arkeologi, 7, 75-77.
Guðjonsson, E., 1993. Warp-weighted looms in Iceland and Greenland. Comparison of medieval loom parts in Greenland in 1934 and 1990-92 to loom parts from the eighteenth and nineteenth century warp-weighted looms in Iceland. Preliminary report. Neumünster: NESAT VI. Neumünster: 178-195.
Hall, R.A., 2006. York. A medieval centre of craft and production. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 93-104.
Henry, P.A., 2005. Who produced the textiles? Changing gender roles in late Saxon textile production: The archaeological and documentary evidence. In: F. Pritchard and J. P. Wild, eds. Northern archaeological textiles. Oxford: NESAT VII, Oxford Books, 51-57. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dpt9.13
Herlihy, D., 1990. Opera muliebria. Women and work in medieval Europe. New York: McGraw-Hill.
Hiekkanen, M. and Harjula, J., 2006. Crafts in the town of Turku from 13th to the 18th century. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 521-537.
Hoffmann, M., 1964. The warp-weighted loom: studies in the history and technology of an ancient technology of an ancient implement. Oslo: Norwegian University Press.
Hoffmann, M., 1975a. Vadmål. KLNM, XIX, 409-412.
Hoffmann, M., 1975b. Vever. KLNM, XIX, 679.
Hougen, B., 2006. Billedvev. In: A.E. Christensen and M. Nockert, eds. Tekstilene, Osebergfunnet Bd. IV. Oslo: Universitetets Oldsaksamling, 15-140.
Jacobsen, G., 1995. Kvinder, Køn og Købstadslovgivning 1400-1600. Lovfaste Mænd og ærlige Kvinder. København: Det kongelige bibliotek Museum, Tusculanums forlag.
Jesch, J., 1991. Women in the viking age. Woodbridge: The Boydell Press.
Kamińska, J. and Nahlik, A., 1960. L'industrie textile du haut Moyen Age de Pologne. In: Archaeologica Polona III. Warsaw, 89-109.
Kaukonen, T.-I., Vever. KLNM, XIX, 680.
Kjellberg, A. 1979. Tekstilmaterialet fra Oslogate 7. Feltene «Oslogate» Bebyggelsesrester og funngrupper. In: E. Schia and P.B. Molaug, eds. Vol. 2. De arkeologiske utgravninger i Gamlebyen, Oslo. Øvre Ervik: Alvheim og Eide Akademiske Forlag, 83-104.
KLNM = Kulturhistorisk leksikon for nordisk middelalder, Fra vikingtid til reformasjonstid. Vols. I-XXII. Oslo: Gyldendal norsk forlag, 1956-1978.
Kolĉin, B.A., 1968. Sovjetunionens arkeologi. Samling av arkeologiske kilder. Hefte 1-55, Fornminner fra Novgorod. Tregjenstander. Translated by A. Stalsberg. Oslo: Universitetets Oldsaksamling.
Kowaleski, M. and Bennett, J.M., 1989. Crafts, guilds, and women in the Middle Ages. Fifty years after Marian K. Dale. Signs, Vol. 14. No 2. Working together in the Middle Ages: Perspectives on women's communities. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 474-501. Available from: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3174558 (accessed 19.02.2015). https://doi.org/10.1086/494517
Lüdecke, T., 2006. Das Handwerk in der Stadt Stade - archäologische und historische Notizen, mit Schwerpunkt auf der Situation des 14. Jahrhunderts. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 223-138.
Mårtensson, L., et al., 2006. Technical Report. Experimental Archaeology Part 3. Loomweights. Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contexts. Research Programme. The Danish National Research Foundation's Centre for Textile Research (CTR). University of Copenhagen.
Mårtensson, L., Nosch, M.-L., and Andersson Strand, E., 2009. Shape of things: understanding a loom weight. Oxford Journal of Archaeology, 28 (4), 373-398. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-0092.2009.00334.x
Meulengracht Sørensen, P., 1995. Fortælling og ære. Studier i islændingesagaerne. Oslo: Universitetsforlaget.
Milek, K., 2012. The roles of pit houses and gendered spaces on Viking Age farmsteads in Iceland. Medieval Archaeology, 56, 85-130. https://doi.org/10.1179/0076609712Z.0000000004
Munro, J., 2000a. Wool and wool-based textiles in the West European economy, c. 800-1500: innovations and traditions in textile products, technology, and industrial organisation. Working Paper no.5 UT. ECIPA-MUNRO-00-05.
Munro, J., 2000b. European woollen industries and their struggles for international markets, c. 1000-1500. Available from: http://www.economics.utoronto.ca/archive/UT-ECIPA-MUNRO-00-04.html
Munro, J., 2003. Medieval woollen textiles, technology and organisation. In: D. Jenkins, ed. The Cambridge history of western textiles. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 181-227.
NgL = Norges Gamle Love indtil 1387. Published by Keyser, R., Munch, P.A., Storm, G. and Hertzberg, E. Vols. I-V, 1846-1895. (Christiania).
Nordeide, S.W., 1994.Håndverket. In: A. Christophersen and S. W. Nordeide, eds. Kaupangen ved Nidelva. Riksantikvarens Skrifter Nr. 7. Trondheim: Riksantikvaren, 213-241.
Ogilvie, S., 2004. How does social capital affect women? Guilds and communities in early modern Germany. The American Historical Review, 109, 325-359. https://doi.org/10.1086/530335
Oldman, J., 2012. Guilds. In: G. Owen-Crocker, E. Coatsworth, and M. Hayward, eds. Encyclopedia of medieval dress and textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450. Leiden: Brill, 248-255.
Owen-Crocker, G., 2012. Looms. In: G. Owen-Crocker, E. Coatsworth, and M. Hayward, eds. Encyclopedia of medieval dress and textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450. Leiden: Brill, 344-347.
Øye, I., 1988. Textile equipment and its working environment, Bryggen in Bergen c 1150-1500, the Bryggen papers. Main series. Vol. 2. Bergen: Norwegian University Press.
Øye, I., 2014. Bergen and the German Hansa in an archaeological perspective. In: A. Falk, U. Müller and M. Schneider, eds. Lübeck und der Hanseraum. Beiträge zu Archäologie und Kulturgeschichte. Festschrift für Manfred Gläser. Lübeck: Schmidt-Römhild, 481-490.
Øye, I., 2015a. Technology and textile production from the Viking age and the Middle Ages: Norwegian cases. In: A. Ling Huang and C. Jahnke, eds. Textiles and the medieval economy: production, trade, and consumption of textiles, 8th-16th centuries. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 41-63. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dm0t.6
Øye, I., 2015b. Tekstilproduksjon i middelalderbyene - mer enn bare husflid? In: L.-M.B. Johansen, et al., eds. Festskrift til Petter B. Molaug. Oslo: Novus forlag, 25-51.
Petersen, J., 1951. Vikingetidens redskaper. Skrifter utgitt av Det norske videnskaps-akademi i Oslo. II. Hist.-filos. Oslo: Klasse, 4.
Þorláksson, H., 1991. Vaðmál og verðlag. Vaðmál í utanlandsviðskiptun og í búskap Íslendinga á 13. og 14. öld. Reykjavík: Fjölföldun Sigurjóns.
Prichard, F., 1984. Late Saxoc textiles from the City of London. Medieval Archaeology, XXVII, 46-76. https://doi.org/10.1080/00766097.1984.11735456
Rabben, A., 2002. Med vevsverd og stekepanne. Tekstilredskaper og kjøkkenredskaper i vestnorske mannsgraver fra yngre jernalder Unpublished master thesis in archaeology. University of Bergen.
Rast-Eicher A. and Windler, R., 2006. Mit den Füssen zu weben? Tradition und Innovation in der Webstuhltechnologie. Kunst und Architechtur in der Schweiz, Bd, 57, Bern: Gesellschaft für Schweizeriche Kunstgeschichte, 29-35.
Rammo, R., 2014. Tradition and transition: the technology and usage of plant-fibre textiles in Estonian rural areas in the eleventh-seventeenth centuries. In: S. Lipkin and K. Vajanto, eds. Focus on archaeological textiles. Multidisciplinary approaches. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 3, Helsinki: Archaeological Society of Finland, 102-115.
Rech, M., 2004. Gefundene Vergangenheit. Archäeologie des Mittelalters in Bremen. Mit besonderers Berücksichtigung von Riga. Bremen: Der Landesarchäologe Bremen. Archäeologische Blätter. Beiheft 3. Bremen.
Reisnert, A., 2006. Craft in Malmö during the medieval and Renaissance period. In: M. Gläser, ed. Das Handwerk. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäeologie im Hanseraum V. Lübeck: Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, 553-565.
Rosser, G., 1997. Crafts, guilds and the negotiation of work in the medieval town. Past & Present, 154, 3-31. https://doi.org/10.1093/past/154.1.3
Rui, L.M., 1991. Kljåsteiner - vevlodd. In: E. Schia and P.B. Molaug, eds. Dagliglivets gjenstander - del II. De arkeologiske utgravninger i Gamlebyen, Oslo. Vol. 8. Øvre Eide: Alvheim og Eide Akademiske Forlag, 13-131.
Søgaard, H., 1975. Vever. KLNM, XIX, 680.
Soly, H., 2008. The political economy of European craft guilds: power relations and economic strategies of merchants and early master artisans in the medieval and early modern textile industries. International Review of Social History, 53, 45-71. https://doi.org/10.1017/S002085900800360X
Storz-Schumm, H., 1993. Textilproduktion in der mittelalterlichen Stadt. In: N. Flüeler, eds. Stadtluft, Hirsebrei und Bettelmönch, Die Stadt um 1300. Stuttgart: Konrad Theiss Verlag, 402-407.
Thompson, M.V., 1968. The horizontal loom at Novgorod. Medieval Archaeology, Journal of the Society for Medieval Archaeology, XII, 146-147. https://doi.org/10.1080/00766097.1968.11735309
Tidow, K., 2009. Mittelalterliche und frühmittelalterliche Textilfunde aus Ausgrabungen in Baden Würtenberg - Unansehnliche Stoffreste erzählen Textilgeschichte. Denkmalphlege in Baden-Wurtemburg, 3, 171-177.
Walton Rogers, P., 1997. Textile production at 16-22 Coppergate. The Archaeology of York, Vol. 17: The Small Finds, York: Council of British Archaeology, Bowes Morrell House.
Wild, J.P., 1987. The roman horizontal loom. American Journal of Archaeology, 91 (3), 459-471. https://doi.org/10.2307/505366
Windler, R., 1994. Spätmittelalterliche Webkeller in der Altstadt von Winterthur (Kanton Zürich). In: G. Jaacks and K. Tidow, eds. Archäologische Textilfunde - Archaeological Textiles. Textilsymposium Neumünster NESAT 5 1993. Neumünster, 196-202.
Windler, R., 2008. Mittelalterliche Webstühle und Weberwerkstätten - Archäologische Befunde und Funde. Archäologie und mittelalterliches Handwerk - Eine Standortbestimmung. Beiträge des 10. In: W. Melzer, ed. Kolloquiums des Arbeitskreises zur archäologischen Erforschung des mittelalterlichen Handwerks. Soest: Westfälische Verlagsbuchhandlung Mocker and Jahn, 201-215.
Zariņa, A., 1992. Frühe Funde von Trittwebstühlen in Lettland. Report from the 4th NESAT Symposium, 1-5. May 1990 in Copenhagen (eds. L. Bender Jørgensen and E. Munksgaard. Copenhagen: Konservatorskolen, Det Kongelige danske kunstakademi: 178-186.
Zimmermann, H., 1982. Archäologiscje Befunde frühmittelalterlicher Webhäuser. In: L. Bender Jørgensen and B. Magnus, eds. Textilsymposium Neumünster. Archäologische Textilfunde, 6.5-8.5. 1981. Neumünster: Textilmuseum Neumünster, 109-134.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Counting from volume 11 (2022), articles published in DJA are licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0). The editorial board may accept other Creative Commons licenses for individual articles, if required by funding bodies e.g. the European Research Council. With the publication of volume 11, authors retain copyright to their articles and give DJA the right to the first publication. The authors retain copyright to earlier versions of the articles, such as the submitted and the accepted manuscript.
Articles in volume 1-8 are not licensed under Creative Commons. In these volumes, all rights are reserved to DJA. This implies that readers can download, read, and link to the articles, but they cannot republish the articles. Authors can upload their articles in an institutional repository as a part of a green open access policy.
Articles in volume 9-10 are not licensed under Creative Commons. In these volumes, all rights are reserved to the authors of the articles respectively. This implies that readers can download, read, and link to the articles, but they cannot republish the articles. Authors can upload their articles in an institutional repository.