Wool textiles and archaeometry

testing reliability of archaeological wool fibre diameter measurements

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2018.1495917

Abstract

Characterisations of ancient sheep breeds and wool types and theories about wool fibre processing are integral parts of textile archaeology. The studies build on statistical calculations of measurements of wool fibre diameters and reveal characteristics of the yarns that are attributed to the available raw wool and to the production methods of the time. Different microscope types have been used for data collection. Presently digital images from either scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmitted light microscopy (TLM) are the preferred methods. The advantage of SEM is the good depth of field at high magnification, while TLM is simpler to use and more readily available. Several classification systems have been developed to facilitate the interpretation of the results. In this article, the comparability of the results from these two methods and from the use of different magnifications in general is examined based on the analyses of a large number of the Danish prehistoric textiles. The results do not indicate superiority of one microscope type in favour of another. Rather, they reveal differences in the calculations that can be ascribed to the diversity of the fibres in the individual yarns as well as to the methodology and the magnification level.

Author Biographies

Irene Skals

Research, Collection and Conservation, National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen, Denmark

Margarita Gleba

McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, UK

Michelle Taube

Research, Collection and Conservation, National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen, Denmark

Ulla Mannering

Research, Collection and Conservation, National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen, Denmark

References

Andersson Strand, E., 2012. The textile Chaîne Opératoire: using a multidisciplinary approach to textile archaeology with a focus on the ancient near east. Paléorient, 38 (1-2), 21-40. https://doi.org/10.3406/paleo.2012.5456

Barber, E.J.W., 1991. Prehistoric textiles. The development of cloth in the neolithic and bronze ages with special reference to the aegean. Princeton: Princeton University Press.

Bender Jørgensen, L. and Walton, P., 1986. Dyes and fleece types in prehistoric textiles from Scandinavia and Germany. Journal of Danish Archaeology, 5, 177-188. https://doi.org/10.1080/0108464X.1986.10589966

Christiansen, C.A., 2004. A reanalysis of fleece evolution studies. In: J. Maik, Editor. Priceless invention of humanity - textiles. NESAT VIII. Łódź: Łódzkie Towarzystwo Naukoweó, 11-17.

Doehner, H. and Reumuth, H., 1964. Wollkunde. Berlin/ Hamburg: Paul-Parey-Verlag.

Gleba, M., 2012. From textiles to sheep: investigating wool fibre development in pre-Roman Italy using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Journal of Archaeological Science, 39, 3643-3661. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2012.06.021

Good, I., 1999. The ecology of exchange: textiles from Shahr-I Sokhta, Eastern Iran. Sheep to Textiles: Approaches to Investigating Ancient Wool Trade. Textile Trading and Distribution in Antiquity, Thesis (PhD). University of Pennsylvania.

Grömer, K., Bender Jørgensen, L., and Baković, M., 2018. Missing link: an early wool textile from Pustopolje in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Antiquity, 92 (362), 351-367. https://doi.org/10.15184/aqy.2018.18

Maik, J., 1998. Westeuropäische Wollgevebe im mittelalterlichen Elbląg (Elbing). In: L.A. Bender Jørgensen and C. Rinaldo, Eds. Textiles in European archaeology. Report from the 6th NESAT Symposium, 7-11th May 1996 in Borås. Göteborg: Göteborg University, 215-232.

Mannering, U., Possnert, G., Heinemeier, J. and Gleba, M. 2010. Dating Danish textiles and skins from bog finds by means of 14C 'AMS. Journal of Archaeological Science, 37, 261-268. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2009.09.037

Mannering, U. and Gleba, M., Forthcoming. Designed for life and death. Oxford: Oxbow Books.

Mannering, U., and Peacock, E., 1998. A note on mineral preserved textiles from the cemetery at Nørre Sandegård Vest, Bornholm, Denmark. Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, 26, 8-13.

Munro, J., 2009. Three centuries of luxury textile consumption in the low countries and England, 1330-1570: trends and comparisons of real values of woollen broadcloths (Then and Now). In: K. Vestergård Pedersen and M.-L.B. Nosch, Eds. The medieval broadcloth: changing trends in fashions, manufacturing, and consumption. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 1-73.

Peters, J., Von den Driesch, A., and Helmer, D., 2005. The upper euphrates tigris basin: cradle of agro-pastoralism? In: J.-D. Vigne, J. Peters, and D. Helmers, Eds. The first steps of animal domestication. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 96-123.

Pliny, R. H., 1940. Natural History, Volume VIII, Books 8- 11, Transl. HRackham, Loeb Classical Library No. 353, Harvard: Harvard University Press.

Qi, K., et al., 1994. Evaluation of the optical fibre diameter analyses (OFDA) for measuring fiber diameter parameters of sheep and goats. Journal of Animal Science, 72, 1675-1679. https://doi.org/10.2527/1994.7271675x

Rast-Eicher, A., 2008. Textilien, Wolle, Schafe der Eisenzeit in der Schweiz. Basel: ArchäologieSchweiz.

Rast-Eicher, A., 2013. The fibre quality of skins and textiles from Hallstatt salt mines. In: K. Grömer, et al., Eds. Textiles from Hallstatt. Weaving culture in bronze age and iron age salt mines. Budapest: Archaeolingua col 28 Vols. 163-178.1

Rast-Eicher, A. and Bender Jørgensen, L., 2013. Sheep wool in Bronze Age and Iron Age Europe. Journal of Archaeological Science, 40, 1224-1241. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2012.09.030

Ryder, M.L., 1964. Fleece evolution in domestic sheep. Nature, 204 (4958), 555-559. https://doi.org/10.1038/204555a0

Ryder, M.L., 1969. Changes in the fleece of sheep following domestication. In: P.J. Ucko and G.W. Dimbleby, Eds. The domestication and exploitation of plants and animals. London: Duckworth, 495-521.

Ryder, M.L., 1974. Wools from Antiquity. Textile History, 5, 100-110. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049674793692046

Ryder, M.L., 1981. Wools from Vindolanda. Journal of Archaeological Science, 8, 99-103. https://doi.org/10.1016/0305-4403(81)90015-7

Ryder, M.L., 1983a. Sheep and Man. London: Duckworth.

Ryder, M.L., 1983b. A re-assessment of Bronze Age wool. Journal of Archaeological Science, 10, 327-331. https://doi.org/10.1016/0305-4403(83)90070-5

Ryder, M.L., 1987. Merino history in old wool: the use of wool remains in ancient skin and cloth to study the origin and history of the fine-woolled sheep that became the Spanish Merino. Textile History, 18 (2), 117-132. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049687793700691

Ryder, M.L., 1988. Danish Bronze Age Wools. Journal of Danish Archaeology, 7, 136-143. https://doi.org/10.1080/0108464X.1988.10590002

Ryder, M.L., 1990. Skin, and wool-textile remains from Hallstatt, Austria. Oxford Journal of Archaeology, 9 (1), 37-49. https://doi.org/10.1111/ojoa.1990.9.issue-1

Ryder, M.L., 1992. The interaction between biological and technological change during the development of different fleece types in sheep. Anthropozoologica, 16, 131-140.

Ryder, M.L., 2000. Issues in conserving archaeological textiles. Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, 31, 2-7.

Ryder, M.L., 2005. The human development of different fleece-types in sheep and its association with the development of textile crafts. In: F. Pritchard and J.P. Wild, Eds. Northern Archaeological Textiles NESAT VII. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 122-128. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dpt9.26

Skals, I. and Mannering, U., 2014. Investigation of wool fibres from danish prehistoric textiles. Archaeological Textiles Review, 56, 24-25.

Sørensen, T.F., 2017. The two cultures and a world apart: archaeology and science at a new crossroads. Norwegian Archaeological Review, 50 (2), 101-115. https://doi.org/10.1080/00293652.2017.1367031

Waetzoldt, H., 1972. Unterzuchungen zur neusumerischen Textilindustrie. Rome: Studi Economici e Tecnologici 1.

Walton, P., 1988. Dyes and wools in Iron Age Textiles from Norway and Denmark. Journal of Danish Archaeology, 7, 144-158. https://doi.org/10.1080/0108464X.1988.10590003

Walton Rogers, P., 2004. Fibres and dyes in norse textiles. In: E. Østergård, Ed. Woven into the Earth. Textiles from Norse Greenland. Aarhus: Aarhus University Press, 79-92.

Downloads

Published

2018-11-01

How to Cite

Skals, I., Gleba, M., Taube, M., & Mannering, U. (2018). Wool textiles and archaeometry: testing reliability of archaeological wool fibre diameter measurements. Danish Journal of Archaeology, 7, 161–179. https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2018.1495917

Issue

Section

Research Article